Coco Chanel revolutionized haute couture fashion by replacing the traditional corseted silhouette with the comfort of simple suits and long, slender dresses. Chanel frequently incorporated ideas from male fashion into her designs. Chanel's simpler lines of women's couture led to the popular "flat-chested" look of the 1920s. Her clothing was relaxed, unstructured, and changed the way women dressed for outdoor activities. Coco omitted corsets, liberating women and allowing more comfort. Contemporary Fashion states, "She dressed the modern woman in clothes for a lifestyle." Coco is credited for making jersey (a soft elasticated knit used for undergarments) a popular fashion fabric. Her jersey dresses, often in navy and gray, were cut to flatter the figure rather than to emphasize and distort the natural body shape.
Chanel is also known for its quilted fabric and leather which also has a "secret" quilting pattern sewn at the back to keep the material strong. It was inspired by the jackets worn by jockeys. This material is used for clothing and accessories alike.
She had numerous other major successes that changed the fashion industry, including the Chanel suit, composed of a knee-length skirt and trim, boxy jacket, traditionally made of woven wool with black sewing trim and gold buttons, worn with large costume-pearl necklaces. After the success of her perfume, Chanel No. 5, Coco Chanel's fashions became well-known and were purchased by the high flyers of London and Paris society alike. The financial gain from the fragrance also helped her company during difficult years.
2011年10月28日星期五
Becoming competitive again would necessarily
Chanel returned to Paris in 1953 to find the Paris fashion scene obsessed with Christian Dior and the very feminine look for which he alone is given credit, the "New Look." Coco Chanel responded brilliantly to the challenge; she recognized that the couture market had changed and she needed to catch-up. Becoming competitive again would necessarily come at a great price; Chanel needed to be a significant presence in: haute couture, pret-a-porter, costume jewelry and fragrance. Coco swallowed her pride and re-approached Pierre for business advice and financial backing. In return, he negotiated for himself complete rights to all products bearing the brand: "Chanel." But their re-kindled collaboration paid off handsomely as Chanel, with her unerring sense of style, once again became the single, most prestigious label in all of fashion. Importantly for the brand and starting in 1953, Coco collaborated with jeweler Robert Goossens to design a line of Chanel jewelry which exquisitely complimented her iconic fashion designs. For example, she paired her re-launched signature "Chanel Suit" (consisting of a knitted wool cardigan with a matching skirt) with long strings of black and white pearls, setting off the suit wonderfully while at the same time adding to it a degree of femininity, thus lightening a sometimes severe look."
She also introduced the Chanel gold or metallic chain-strapped and quilted leather handbags in February 1955. The launch date for this line, 2/55, thus became the internal "appellation" for the quilted bag line. It is still known throughout the world as the "2/55" bag and it, just like the "Chanel Suit" has never really ever fallen out of fashion. Throughout the fifties, her taste continued its unerring path to success, even as she turned to new areas of conquest. Her first venture into men's fragrance became yet another enduring success, Chanel's eau de toilette for men, Pour Monsieur (which has also been marketed under the name: "A Gentleman's Cologne") became, endured and remains even today the number one selling men's fragrance. Chanel and her spring collection received the Fashion Oscar at the 1957 Fashion Awards in Dallas. Pierre Wertheimer bought Bader's 20% share of the perfume business, giving his family 90%. Pierre's son Jacques Wertheimer took his father's place in 1965. Coco's attorney Chambrun called the now-gone-relationship as "one based on a businessman's passion, despite her misplaced feelings of exploitation." He told Forbes, "Pierre returned to Paris full of pride and excitement [after one of his horses won the 1956 English Derby]. He rushed to Coco, expecting congratulations and praise. But she refused to kiss him. She resented him, you see, all her life."
Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel died on 10 January 1971 at the age of 87. She was still "designing, still working" at the time of her death. For example, she designed the uniforms for Olympic Airways flight attendants (1966–1969), followed by Pierre Cardin. Olympic Airways was then one of the most luxurious air carriers, owned by the Greek shipping-magnate Aristotle Onassis. After her death, leadership of the company was handed down to Yvonne Dudel, Jean Cazaubon and Philippe Guibourge.After a period of time, Jacques Wertheimer bought the entire House of Chanel. Critics stated that during his leadership, he never paid much attention to the company, as he was more interested in horse breeding. In 1974, the House of Chanel launched Cristalle eau de toilette, which was designed when Coco Chanel was alive. 1978 saw the launch of the first non-couture, prêt-à-porter line and worldwide distribution of accessories.
Alain Wertheimer, Jacques's son, took over in 1974. Back in the U.S., Chanel No.5 was seen as a passe perfume. Alain revamped Chanel No.5 sales by reducing the number of outlets carrying the fragrance from 18,000 to 12,000. He removed the perfume from drugstore shelves, and invested millions of dollars in advertisement for Chanel cosmetics. This ensured a greater sense of scarcity and exclusivity for No.5, and sales rocketed back up as demand for the fragrance increased. He also used many famous people to endorse the perfume—from Marilyn Monroe to Audrey Tautou. Looking for a designer who could bring the label to new heights, he persuaded Karl Lagerfeld to end his contract with fashion house Chloé.
She also introduced the Chanel gold or metallic chain-strapped and quilted leather handbags in February 1955. The launch date for this line, 2/55, thus became the internal "appellation" for the quilted bag line. It is still known throughout the world as the "2/55" bag and it, just like the "Chanel Suit" has never really ever fallen out of fashion. Throughout the fifties, her taste continued its unerring path to success, even as she turned to new areas of conquest. Her first venture into men's fragrance became yet another enduring success, Chanel's eau de toilette for men, Pour Monsieur (which has also been marketed under the name: "A Gentleman's Cologne") became, endured and remains even today the number one selling men's fragrance. Chanel and her spring collection received the Fashion Oscar at the 1957 Fashion Awards in Dallas. Pierre Wertheimer bought Bader's 20% share of the perfume business, giving his family 90%. Pierre's son Jacques Wertheimer took his father's place in 1965. Coco's attorney Chambrun called the now-gone-relationship as "one based on a businessman's passion, despite her misplaced feelings of exploitation." He told Forbes, "Pierre returned to Paris full of pride and excitement [after one of his horses won the 1956 English Derby]. He rushed to Coco, expecting congratulations and praise. But she refused to kiss him. She resented him, you see, all her life."
Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel died on 10 January 1971 at the age of 87. She was still "designing, still working" at the time of her death. For example, she designed the uniforms for Olympic Airways flight attendants (1966–1969), followed by Pierre Cardin. Olympic Airways was then one of the most luxurious air carriers, owned by the Greek shipping-magnate Aristotle Onassis. After her death, leadership of the company was handed down to Yvonne Dudel, Jean Cazaubon and Philippe Guibourge.After a period of time, Jacques Wertheimer bought the entire House of Chanel. Critics stated that during his leadership, he never paid much attention to the company, as he was more interested in horse breeding. In 1974, the House of Chanel launched Cristalle eau de toilette, which was designed when Coco Chanel was alive. 1978 saw the launch of the first non-couture, prêt-à-porter line and worldwide distribution of accessories.
Alain Wertheimer, Jacques's son, took over in 1974. Back in the U.S., Chanel No.5 was seen as a passe perfume. Alain revamped Chanel No.5 sales by reducing the number of outlets carrying the fragrance from 18,000 to 12,000. He removed the perfume from drugstore shelves, and invested millions of dollars in advertisement for Chanel cosmetics. This ensured a greater sense of scarcity and exclusivity for No.5, and sales rocketed back up as demand for the fragrance increased. He also used many famous people to endorse the perfume—from Marilyn Monroe to Audrey Tautou. Looking for a designer who could bring the label to new heights, he persuaded Karl Lagerfeld to end his contract with fashion house Chloé.
2011年10月27日星期四
amateur boxing
Throughout the 17th through 19th centuries, boxing bouts were motivated by money, as the fighters competed for prize money, promoters controlled the gate, and spectators bet on the result. The modern Olympic movement revived interest in amateur sports, and amateur boxing became an Olympic sport in 1908.
In their current form, Olympic and other amateur bouts are typically limited to three or four rounds, scoring is computed by points based on the number of clean blows landed, regardless of impact, and fighters wear protective headgear, reducing the number of injuries, knockdowns, and knockouts.
Currently scoring blows in amateur boxing are subjectively counted by ringside judges, but the Australian Institute for Sport has demonstrated a prototype of an Automated Boxing Scoring System, which introduces scoring objectivity, improves safety, and arguably makes the sport more interesting to spectators. Professional boxing remains by far the most popular form of the sport globally, though amateur boxing is dominant in Cuba and some former Soviet republics.
For most fighters, an amateur career, especially at the Olympics, serves to develop skills and gain experience in preparation for a professional career.
In their current form, Olympic and other amateur bouts are typically limited to three or four rounds, scoring is computed by points based on the number of clean blows landed, regardless of impact, and fighters wear protective headgear, reducing the number of injuries, knockdowns, and knockouts.
Currently scoring blows in amateur boxing are subjectively counted by ringside judges, but the Australian Institute for Sport has demonstrated a prototype of an Automated Boxing Scoring System, which introduces scoring objectivity, improves safety, and arguably makes the sport more interesting to spectators. Professional boxing remains by far the most popular form of the sport globally, though amateur boxing is dominant in Cuba and some former Soviet republics.
For most fighters, an amateur career, especially at the Olympics, serves to develop skills and gain experience in preparation for a professional career.
As the wearing of swords became less common
Records of Classical boxing activity disappeared after the fall of the Western Roman Empire when the wearing of weapons became common once again and interest in fighting with the fists waned. However, there are detailed records of various fist-fighting sports that were maintained in different cities and provinces of Italy between the 12th and 17th centuries. There was also a sport in ancient Rus called Fistfight. As the wearing of swords became less common, there was renewed interest in fencing with the fists. The sport would later resurface in England during the early 16th century in the form of bare-knuckle boxing sometimes referred to as prizefighting.
The first documented account of a bare-knuckle fight in England appeared in 1681 in the London Protestant Mercury, and the first English bare-knuckle champion was James Figg in 1719. This is also the time when the word "boxing" first came to be used. It should be noted, that this earliest form of modern boxing was very different. Contests in Mr. Figg's time, in addition to fistfighting, also contained fencing and cudgeling. On 6 January 1681, the first recorded boxing match took place in Britain when Christopher Monck, 2nd Duke of Albemarle (and later Lieutenant Governor of Jamaica) engineered a bout between his butler and his butcher with the latter winning the prize.
Early fighting had no written rules. There were no weight divisions or round limits, and no referee. In general, it was extremely chaotic. The first boxing rules, called the Broughton's rules, were introduced by heavyweight champion Jack Broughton in 1743 to protect fighters in the ring where deaths sometimes occurred.
Under these rules, if a man went down and could not continue after a count of 30 seconds, the fight was over. Hitting a downed fighter and grasping below the waist were prohibited. Broughton also invented and encouraged the use of "mufflers", a form of padded gloves, which were used in training and exhibitions. The first paper on boxing was published in the late 18th century by successful Birmingham boxer 'William Futrell' who remained undefeated until his one hour and seventeen minute fight at Smitham Bottom, Croydon, on July 9, 1788 against a much younger "Gentleman" John Jackson which was attended by the Prince of Wales.
Tom Molineaux vs Tom Cribb in a re-match for the heavyweight championship of England, 1811These rules did allow the fighters an advantage not enjoyed by today's boxers: They permitted the fighter to drop to one knee to begin a 30-second count at any time. Thus a fighter realizing he was in trouble had an opportunity to recover. However, this was considered "unmanly" and was frequently disallowed by additional rules negotiated by the Seconds of the Boxers. Intentionally going down in modern boxing will cause the recovering fighter to lose points in the scoring system. Furthermore, as the contestants did not have heavy leather gloves and wristwraps to protect their hands, a certain amount of restraint was required when striking the head.
The first documented account of a bare-knuckle fight in England appeared in 1681 in the London Protestant Mercury, and the first English bare-knuckle champion was James Figg in 1719. This is also the time when the word "boxing" first came to be used. It should be noted, that this earliest form of modern boxing was very different. Contests in Mr. Figg's time, in addition to fistfighting, also contained fencing and cudgeling. On 6 January 1681, the first recorded boxing match took place in Britain when Christopher Monck, 2nd Duke of Albemarle (and later Lieutenant Governor of Jamaica) engineered a bout between his butler and his butcher with the latter winning the prize.
Early fighting had no written rules. There were no weight divisions or round limits, and no referee. In general, it was extremely chaotic. The first boxing rules, called the Broughton's rules, were introduced by heavyweight champion Jack Broughton in 1743 to protect fighters in the ring where deaths sometimes occurred.
Under these rules, if a man went down and could not continue after a count of 30 seconds, the fight was over. Hitting a downed fighter and grasping below the waist were prohibited. Broughton also invented and encouraged the use of "mufflers", a form of padded gloves, which were used in training and exhibitions. The first paper on boxing was published in the late 18th century by successful Birmingham boxer 'William Futrell' who remained undefeated until his one hour and seventeen minute fight at Smitham Bottom, Croydon, on July 9, 1788 against a much younger "Gentleman" John Jackson which was attended by the Prince of Wales.
Tom Molineaux vs Tom Cribb in a re-match for the heavyweight championship of England, 1811These rules did allow the fighters an advantage not enjoyed by today's boxers: They permitted the fighter to drop to one knee to begin a 30-second count at any time. Thus a fighter realizing he was in trouble had an opportunity to recover. However, this was considered "unmanly" and was frequently disallowed by additional rules negotiated by the Seconds of the Boxers. Intentionally going down in modern boxing will cause the recovering fighter to lose points in the scoring system. Furthermore, as the contestants did not have heavy leather gloves and wristwraps to protect their hands, a certain amount of restraint was required when striking the head.
2011年10月24日星期一
Sports / Stars Serena escapes with fine for umpire abuse
NEW YORK - Serena Williams escaped with a $2,000 fine on Monday when tennis officials ruled that her verbal abuse of an umpire during Sunday's US Open final was not a major offense.
The American was investigated by the Grand Slam Committee after she unleashed a torrent of abuse against Eva Asderaki, the Greek umpire who oversaw her shock loss to Australia's Sam Stosur.
Williams, who was on the last day of a two-year probation over an ugly incident at the 2009 US Open, could have faced a more severe penalty, including a hefty fine and a possible suspension, but officials took a lenient line.
US Tennis Association (USTA) tournament director Brian Earley fined Williams $2,000 and the Grand Slam Committee Director agreed that was a sufficient penalty.
"This fine is consistent with similar offenses at Grand Slam events," the USTA said in a statement. "After independently reviewing the incident which served as the basis for the code violation, and taking into account the level of fine imposed by the US Open referee, the Grand Slam Committee Director has determined that Ms. Williams' conduct, while verbally abusive, does not rise to the level of a major offense under the Grand Slam Code of Conduct."
Williams was investigated by officials after she was issued with a code violation for arguing with the umpire during her loss to Stosur.
The American lost her composure when she was docked a point for screaming "Come on!" just as Stosur was about to try and return a shot. She was then given a code violation after yelling at the umpire.
"If you ever see me walking down the hall, look the other way because you're out of control," Williams told the umpire. "You're out of control. You are unattractive inside.
"Code violation for this? I expressed myself, we're in America last time I checked. Don't look at me. Don't look my way."
Williams later said her comments were made in the heat of the moment and she had no reason to apologise but officials said they were taking a closer at the incident because Williams remained under probation for her foul-mouthed rant in 2009 during a semi-final loss to eventual champion Kim Clijsters.
She was fined $82,500 and warned that the fine would be doubled and she could be suspended from other grand slams if she committed another "major offense" in the next two years.
The American was investigated by the Grand Slam Committee after she unleashed a torrent of abuse against Eva Asderaki, the Greek umpire who oversaw her shock loss to Australia's Sam Stosur.
Williams, who was on the last day of a two-year probation over an ugly incident at the 2009 US Open, could have faced a more severe penalty, including a hefty fine and a possible suspension, but officials took a lenient line.
US Tennis Association (USTA) tournament director Brian Earley fined Williams $2,000 and the Grand Slam Committee Director agreed that was a sufficient penalty.
"This fine is consistent with similar offenses at Grand Slam events," the USTA said in a statement. "After independently reviewing the incident which served as the basis for the code violation, and taking into account the level of fine imposed by the US Open referee, the Grand Slam Committee Director has determined that Ms. Williams' conduct, while verbally abusive, does not rise to the level of a major offense under the Grand Slam Code of Conduct."
Williams was investigated by officials after she was issued with a code violation for arguing with the umpire during her loss to Stosur.
The American lost her composure when she was docked a point for screaming "Come on!" just as Stosur was about to try and return a shot. She was then given a code violation after yelling at the umpire.
"If you ever see me walking down the hall, look the other way because you're out of control," Williams told the umpire. "You're out of control. You are unattractive inside.
"Code violation for this? I expressed myself, we're in America last time I checked. Don't look at me. Don't look my way."
Williams later said her comments were made in the heat of the moment and she had no reason to apologise but officials said they were taking a closer at the incident because Williams remained under probation for her foul-mouthed rant in 2009 during a semi-final loss to eventual champion Kim Clijsters.
She was fined $82,500 and warned that the fine would be doubled and she could be suspended from other grand slams if she committed another "major offense" in the next two years.
Jacquelin replaces injured Quiros in Seve Trophy
PARIS - Long-hitting Spaniard Alvaro Quiros has pulled out of this week's Seve Trophy because of a wrist injury, organisers said on Monday.
Quiros will be replaced by Frenchman Raphael Jacquelin in the Continental Europe side to face Britain and Ireland in the biennial event at St Nom La Breteche which starts on Thursday.
Jacquelin, 37, was next in line for a place in the team through the Race to Dubai qualifying list. It will be his fourth appearance in the competition.
"It is desperately disappointing news for Alvaro," Europe captain Jean Van de Velde told the tour's website (http://birkenstocksshops.com/). "He wanted to play and to be able to honour the memory of Seve.
"He is a wonderful player and a great character. Having said that, Raphael is an outstanding player as he proved in three previous Seve Trophies when he collected eight-and-a-half points."
Britain and Ireland have won the trophy five times and Europe once since the event was launched by Spanish great Seve Ballesteros, who died earlier this year after a long battle with brain cancer.
Quiros will be replaced by Frenchman Raphael Jacquelin in the Continental Europe side to face Britain and Ireland in the biennial event at St Nom La Breteche which starts on Thursday.
Jacquelin, 37, was next in line for a place in the team through the Race to Dubai qualifying list. It will be his fourth appearance in the competition.
"It is desperately disappointing news for Alvaro," Europe captain Jean Van de Velde told the tour's website (http://birkenstocksshops.com/). "He wanted to play and to be able to honour the memory of Seve.
"He is a wonderful player and a great character. Having said that, Raphael is an outstanding player as he proved in three previous Seve Trophies when he collected eight-and-a-half points."
Britain and Ireland have won the trophy five times and Europe once since the event was launched by Spanish great Seve Ballesteros, who died earlier this year after a long battle with brain cancer.
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